Michel Chapoutier explains the wine market

Changing consumer habits, a new generation influencing our customs…. The wine market is undergoing a major transformation. Michel Chapoutier explains.

There can be no doubt : consumption of red wine is on the decline. When I started in this business, national consumption was 100 litres per capita per year. Today it’s 37 litres, and less still for the new generation.

I don’t believe red wine will disappear forever. New drinkers have always gone for cold drinks from the fridge, like soda, beer, crémants and sparkling wines, but also whites and rosés. Red wines, on the other hand, have traditionally been consuled at room temperature, hence their dropp-off. In fact, for this new generation, « non premium » drinks are best enjoyed chilled, bellow 14/15°.

For example, the two regions that have succeeded in serving their red wines chilled on ice (Alsace and Loire) enjoy strong demand for red wines and cannot produce enough of them.

At the same time, the great red wines are less affected by this trend. As wine is not an essential product , people are making their choices : « I still drink good wine, but I drink it less often ».

But this market downturn is also a challenge and an opportunity. Let’s face it, when it comes to restaurants, you can choose gastronomy or tapas. In music, you can go for disco, lyrical or classical music.

Wine has been made into a « Sunday-best » consumer intem, as if all producers wanted to be at the top of the AOP charts. We’ve forgotten that wine is first and foremost a drink, and that you can make more relaxed versions of it. Wine was the first product to differentiate Quality from quantity. Back then, the gauge of Quality was alcohol content. The higher the alcohol content, the better the wine, which is why red wines were served at room temperature.

Like the gourmet restaurants that have set up bistros next door, our aim at M. CHAPOUTIER is counter wine snobbery and defend the combination of tradition and modernity.

Around 1998, I could see the « rise » of white wines coming. And why ? Because there was already a desire to consume cooler beverages.

In 2008, the same thing happened with rosés. That’s the top and bottom of it… Pairing a glass of rosé with meat has become the norm.

We can’t be afraid to shake things up. In the future, light reds will have to be made with the idea that they will be served chilled and on the rocks.

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